Lucio Vanotti: What Comes First? The Woman or The Clothes?
Designers love to wax lyrical about the women they're dressing. And of course no more so than during fashion week when press releases paint quite the vivid picture. But going against that grain is Lucio Vanotti, one of Milan's newer names.
Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION
"I like the woman to choose me and not me select the woman," he explained backstage before his Spring/Summer 2018 show, talking us through his moodboard: a modern twist on the strictness of the Fifties, Teddy girls meets suffragettes with the purity and minimalism that marks out his work. "Our pieces can be interpreted and you can wear what you want. I have my aesthetic in mind but I don't have a woman in mind."
It's quite a refreshing thing to hear, rather than being pigeonholed from the outset, and makes for a modern sentiment – which today he backed up in a collection that had a piece-it-together feel. Apron dresses and backward-boleros that perched across the collarbone and shoulders in metallic shine were accessorised with coin pouches tied on around and across the body. You could add and subtract accordingly.
"I was trying to make new shapes and balance with the fabrics," continued Vanotti. To this end, it didn't fall into the typically conservative offerings that Milan designers can often end up doing. "People think Italian designers are very commercial and it's time to show something new; we can do more than commercial," he explained, noting that Milan's time is now! "It's a good moment because something is changing. There are a lot of interesting young designers and support and I think it's the time for a new generation."
A tight collection with some nice ideas, Vanotti is obviously out to be a part of that.