A rocky fashion month has just ended, but concerns over coronavirus continue to grow amongst the fashion industry and are already taking their toll on Cruise 2021 shows. Last month, Prada was the first brand to announce the postponement of its 2021 show – which was set to take place in Tokyo. On Tuesday, Gucci called off its show in San Francisco, initially scheduled for May. Now, Versace and...

German luxury fashion house HUGO BOSS has officially released its 2019 Annual Report. Although the report recorded significant sales and earnings growth in the crucial final quarter, the brand's financial development for the full year fell short compared to initial expectations. According to the report, the brand's operating result (EBIT) in 2019 amounted to EUR 333 million, 4% below the...

In the 1930s, women used to assist to ballets wearing sylph-like evening clothes, following a significant trend: in fact, couturiers both in Europe and in the United States were fascinated by dance, inspired by Sergei Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes and to work made by the aesthete Lincoln Kirstein and Russian choreographer George Balanchine to establish ballet in America. This was a trend that...

The stage of the Balenciaga runway show was flooded with water. On the ceiling, giant screens were displaying images of stormy skies that would turn into whirlwinds and form vortices like tornadoes while frightening birds, which were fleeing in whole flocks. The skies would darken and then flare-up, and the (empty) seats in the first three rows were partially flooded. Was it Demna Gvasalia's...

After a month from the last couture show, when Jean-Paul Gaultier announced it would have been the last show and collection, another big news hit the fashion industry today. In reality, the brand will not cease its activity but every season there will be a guest that will interpret the couture codes of the Maison. Japanese Chitose Abe from the house of Sacai will be the first designer invited...

Air kissing hasn’t been more appropriate at this season’s shows. The impact of the COVID2019 has been very well documented in the past weeks. During Paris Fashion Week, the global stocks tumbled as it did in 2008, creating a level of uncertainty that was not on records since 9/11 terrorist attacks in New York.    The broader fashion industry has...

Nicolas Ghesquière proposed the "anti total-look" working on the concept of time and relating different epochs to their aesthetics. The tie with past, present and future was the main focus and he questioned himself on what would have happened if countless ages had been united in the same moment and place. His narrative pushed the idea of wearing clothes with a careless approach and a freedom of...

Intuitive and spot-on as always, designer Marie-Christine Statz, founder of the label Gauchère – French for left-handed—delivered a pared-down collection of rethought tailoring. One that she confronted with radical feminine touches that nevertheless given a boyish je-ne-sais quoi.A robe-like blazer opened the show and was followed by a wrap-around skirt with long fringes, and a full, Working...

The in-depth research behind any collection by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen is, without a doubt, one of the most personal and precise processes that spurs the designer to study the subject of the season and could become a topic taught in schools. For Fall-Winter 2020, she dissected Welsh traditional culture, costumes and crafts. "I wanted to imagine a woman which feels heroic, bold and...

Military yet candid, a leather cape layered over a cropped button-up dress, all in soft pink, led the way at Giambattista Valli. The experimentation with a Sixties Yeye Girl silhouette carried on in the shape of a baby-doll chiffon number with a Mao collar, or in a series of minidresses-meet-coat. Think France Gall at her peak. Which was then given a gentle punk twist: Like East and West London...

Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino finally dared, and the result was striking. "I wanted to picture the reality in its whole without writing any manifestos about inclusivity", explained the designer the morning before the show. "I think that talk about categories is pointless; I see humanity in its whole with the same rights and without boundaries and limitations. That's why I explored the uniform...

Somewhere between a tutu and petticoat, a midi-length skirt in ruffled tulle opened the show at Anais Jourden — and was to run like a golden thread throughout the collection. First paired with a crushed candy-coloured lamé blouson, followed by a lurex-threaded twinset and a silver moiré blazer, the garment somehow managed to evoke a modernized take on Degas’s ballerina painting. True to her...

The experimental research of Rei Kawakubo at Comme Des Garçons is an endless creative stream that pushes her to imagine impossible forms to cover the body both with performance and functional approach. The first step is the incredible show that, every season for the past six years, surprises for the radical design showcased on stage. The functional one then is the development of the product she...

Off-white on ivory, satin over velour: this collection deployed a harmony of associations, all revolving around rethought and pared-down suits. In his uniquely fluid aesthetic, Ackermann opened the show with a buttoned-up frock coat from under which peaked out leather trousers - a combination resulting, against all odds, in timeless femininity rather than biker chic. This was followed by the...

Hedi Slimane seemed to state it bluntly: like it or not this is me and now I'm doing it at Celine. His language is clear and hard wired in everybody's mind. No surprises, no shake-ups, just him and his image. The fleeting DNA of the french Maison easily lays itself open to different personal interpretations, as it has already happened with previous...