The Maison Margiela brand has made real headway with its "artisanal" haute couture shows. Always finding beauty in the world's castoffs.
However, over the seasons, even through the use of vintage finds and rescued relics, it has also formed trademark codes for the line. The house's hive mind has a clear affinity for embroidery samples, 1920s dresses, rich brocades, and of course face effacing masks. This time, those concepts showed up as beautiful patchwork dresses. Gowns that took the whole "Angelina Jolie" single exposed leg trend to an extreme length - sometimes leaving one whole side of a model exposed to the elements. And as surreal statement pieces like a bustier crafted from a three dimensional red lobster that would have made Elsa Schiaparelli proud.
There is also the seasonal guilty pleasure upcycling of discarded everyday objects. In the past, this has been interpreted as dresses made out of candy foil wrappers or old baseball gloves. Today, outfits came embellished with thrown away bottle caps, a bustier built from a trashed "I Love You" helium ballon covered in red crystal embroidery, and a polka dot concept on a series of garments was brought to life by sewing on an assortment of worthless pocket change.
But as fantastical as the Margiela shows can be, they are not just artistic machination on the consumptive nature of fashion. There are wearable pieces to lust after in each show. This season a camel brown kaftan built from a patchwork of cashmere robracks was definitely a stand out. And the final three lovely evening dresses crafted out of brightly colored "Souvenir Bombers" from the 1950s had front row clients gasping in delight.
This was another strong collection from the newly minted couture house. It proved that the brand has become rather apt in creating valuable continuity along with all its clever originality.