Influenced by our generation's on-going obsession with social media and the way it has been taking its toll on our everyday lives, John Galliano dedicated his Spring/Summer 2017 Margiela Artisanal collection to the exploration of the selfie phenomenon, and took a look at “how reality is veiled in filters and conveyed through symbols,” as explained in a statement released by Maison Margiela's atelier. [CONTINUE READING...]
A reality constantly more obscured with filters, made of symbols rather than words. In his investigation-exploration of the contemporary, John Galliano accompanies Maison Margiela on a journey through the digital reality, pushing the clothes for the Artisanal label across the threshold of the antique doors that crown the catwalk. Symbols of a journey to discover a new, digital universe. A world of selfies, Instagram filters that adjust reality, emoticons instead of phrases, funny faces a la Snapchat and childish designs. The narrative created by the Gibraltarian creative for the label owned by Renzo Rosso’s Otb starts here, in particular with one of the last pieces in the show: A simple white leather coat on which rests a cloud of black tulle. Draped, pleated, modelled and embroidered into a human face. And it’s this human element that underlines the whole show. After the cropped face followed the progressive layering on a slim tunic, from rustic lace forming the eyes of a stranger to a tulle overcoat, invisible and filled with embroidery that mimicked the naïf drawings of a child, as if drawn freehand, with a rainbow tongue. The symbols of the moment make a statement when paired with precious decorations, such as the scarlet hearts made of macro fragments of crystals, or hearts kept under lock and ley. Each piece was created using multiple layers. Revealing the structural skeleton. The word of the season is Décortiqué, because each piece is stripped back and reduced to its essential structure. Dotted throughout the show was evidence of the collaboration with artist Benjamin Shine. In a train of masculine fabrics, from the authentic, archaic hand, to the delicate romantic surfaces, from lace to Sangallo and folkloric accents, from far flung destinations as well as, more closely, Holland. A sprinkling of dramatic intensity, capable of evoking a romantic story of struggle and suffering.
By Giampietro Baudo - MFF Magazine for Fashion