Change is clearly afoot at Maison Margiela. Yes, just like Saint Laurent before it, the company has dropped the first name of its founder as the house transitions into a new design era under the direction of John Galliano.
While much was made of the brand's couture show in London earlier this month, and the first appearance of Galliano in the label's famous white lab coat, today's menswear show was relatively low-key.
In the darkened Salle Wagram theater the house produced a collection moved by the colors, silhouettes and aesthetics of the 1970s. As R.E.M's front man Michael Stipe sat almost unnoticed in the front row, a lineup of retro-tinged outerwear made its debut. A glossy slick trench, navy peacoat, leather car coat with a collar of pink shearling and one crafted from a worn-in print covered canvas were clear winners.
Underneath all the fine coat options, this collection was working hard to dress a modern 70s-loving man for both a day at the office and a night out on the town. Workwear consisted of full cut high-waisted trousers, double-breasted suits and classic button-up shirts. But it was the after dark pieces, the lurex knits and the Christmas tinsel-looking pullovers that left the most indelible mark on the mind.
Overall the collection was well executed and should keep the house in good standing during this transitional time for the label.