In a cavernous decommissioned depot where the trains of Paris were once repaired and put back into circulation, Maison Margiela presented its latest menswear collection. The rundown industrial environment made the perfect foil to the show and its dilapidated grace was echoed on the catwalk.
This was most clearly evident in a series of rubber tops and coats that the brand's atelier created by plastering the substance onto the sides of houses, other clothing, and even the form of a classic Stockman mannequin. Once hardened, the manmade material was peeled off, taking with it elements of what it had adhered to.
It was easy to see that process as something of a metaphor for the house itself. Tearing away the essence of objects and transforming them into something else is the bread and butter of this brand.
However, other than the show's rubber offerings, the rest of this collection — minus a few fly away chaps cut from suiting material and the twisting down of outerwear (leather perfectos, light weight car coat) so that they lumped at the waist — was less experimental than usual.
Suits were cut in lanky silhouettes and roomy long coats mimicked the lines. Metal rivet embellished footwear kept right in step with the manufactured vibe of the show, as did a few sharp creased jackets that also had the same rat-a-tat-tat rivet details. And if you do an industrial inspired show, then it just about makes sense to include at least one sparkling silver suit.
This collection might not get the house on the high speed rail lines of fashion, but it certainly kept it on the right tracks.