Maison Martin Margiela Couture Spring Summer 2013 Paris

The team behind the Masion Martin Margiela haute couture show must have put on quite a few kilos creating the last three outfits in its spring/summer 2013 collection. Crafted out of thousands of shiny metallic candy wrappers the two oversized checked dresses and a slightly A-line coat could have easily put someone into a diabetic shock. But this is a brand that likes to shock and to challenge its audience to see fashion in a new way.

For what is haute couture if not the search for the unique; that one of a kind piece that no one in the world will ever possess? With its commitment to only using vintage garments, and apparently candy wrappers, MMM (as the brand is commonly referred to) believes in giving a second chance to that which has been discarded.
For those long forgotten items that get a new lease on life in the hands of the MMM team there is no doubt that they will ever be abandoned again. For who could part with a trench coat made in part with a 1920’s flapper dress or a cotton perfecto jacket that was bonded to a vintage beaded evening dress? And what about a sleeveless pink velvet gown given a “hand-crinkled” herringbone pattern that was once just a fabric remnant and now has been rehabilitated? It too deserves a new home.

And a home it is sure to find, just like the rest of the 19 pieces in this collection. Undoubtedly more than a few will end up in Lady Gaga’s vast wardrobe, if anything can be read into the fact that her long time confidant Nicola Formichetti was sitting front row.  Or maybe his bench mate Kanye West will splurge on one for Kim Kardashian (he did mention he liked the trench). With a baby on the way she would look good in any number of the slightly forgiving shaped designs.

MMM has just been given an official stamp of approval from French fashion’s governing body, the Chambre Syndicale, to use the haute couture appellation. But that grown up title hasn’t stopped the house from daring to push the definition of haute couture to its extreme. And haute couture is the better for it.

- Jessica Michault

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