Maison Martin Margiela Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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Maison Martin Margiela is really firing on all its fashion cylinders right now. After a successful collaboration with H&M and the recent news that the brand’s haute couture line got the nod from the Chambre Syndicale, French fashion’s governing body, to carry the official haute couture appellation -the house has some serious momentum.
 
The forward motion continued with this fall/winter 2013 show. It was able to skillfully embed the brand’s unique fashion perspective on tailored menswear that, at first glance, looked downright reserved. But as always with MMM, nothing is ever exactly as it seems.
 
The first three exits, a well tailored navy suit, then a double-breasted version in black, and finally a wrap front option all looked rather standard. But wait. The first two were actually trompe l’oeil all-in-one jumpsuits, and the last featured button closures set off to the left with a stitched outline of faux pockets. The suits that followed continued to look conservative but would feature little touches (a fur collar on a coat that finished in a dapper scarf, a jacket and coat fused into one) that proved that this brand might like to have some fun but it also takes the art of garment construction very seriously.
 
But a Margiela show wouldn’t be complete without a totally off the wall outfit or two. In this show, it was the outerwear that got a bit goofy. A poncho crafted from fur scraps or sections of vintage leather jackets were destined for editorials in glossy magazines. But sweaters crafted out of an assortment of knit caps actually looked like it might have real world potential.

With this show the house made fun, yet functional fashion look easy.

- Jessica Michault

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Maison Martin Margiela Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2014 Paris
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