Maison Martin Margiela Menswear Spring Summer 2014 Paris

The Maison Martin Margiela brand has made an art form out of sussing out cool new – often obscure - locations to present their myriad of fashion shows. This season was no exception. The house unearthed the Rosenblum Art Space in the thirteenth arrondissement. It was there, in rooms filled with containers that looked like they incased something malevolent, that the brand showed a collection that focused on revealing the inner workings of menswear.

The show was right on the money, tapping into the whole “inside out” trend that is washing over menswear this season. So the stitch work construction of  a blazer became an embellishment on the outside of the jacket or a bomber showed off the elegant bones of its structure on its rounded exterior.

There were a number of other fun, if more typical, Margiela touches in this collection. The brand loves embossing so straight-forward T-shirts looked as if they had been imprinted, after years of wearing them together, with the pattern of the pants hidden beneath the fabric. Or a light knit sweater showed up with imprints of wide cable knit braids randomly interspersed over the top.

The introduction of aprons or what looked to be a double layered hem on a blazer bottom, but was in fact actual panels built on top of trousers, added a hint of femininity to the line. As did the inclusion of remnants of “well loved” velvet or embroidered dresses which the house reappropriated to make waistcoats or scarves.
With this collection the Margiela house established a good equilibrium between the quirky conceptual DNA of its founding designer with the more mundane matter of creating clothing men wouldn’t be embarrassed to wear.

- Jessica Michault

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