More often than not, I’m tipped off to the presence of a Margiela store on a Parisian street by the interesting women who begin crossing my path. If Maison Martin Margiela catwalk shows are a little confusing, it doesn’t matter on the shop floor because the kind of woman I see browsing MMM can very well work out for herself how to wear the creations. Today this was mirrored by the model casting as record label owner and thirty-something lady about Paris, Caroline De Maigret opened and closed the show.
Otherwise, the production of this show bemused all. The models walked through the dark with solemnity, sadness even, wearing make-up that looked as if it had been smeared across their faces while the music shuffled abruptly (yet comically) through a random playlist, mostly Abbattoir Blues by Nick Cave. The squashed venue didn’t serve the photographers well either which is a shame as in person the clothing is amongst the most interesting we’ve seen all week.
The knee high leather boots with double sole are a wearable, edgy design and seeing as every designer in Paris seems to have sent their own version of the over-the-knee number down the runway, consumers will be spoilt for choice next winter. MMM’s boots will surely be in high demand.
Liquid patent leather dresses in claret and deep royal blue peeped out from long neoprene, leather or wool coats full of zips and panels that pulled away and hung down. A chalky white, boiled wool set of jumper, cardy and pencil skirt was paired with white boots that had turquoise fishnet hosiery pulled over them. Kid leather gloves matched footwear while the clutchbags, also a highlight, were shaped like large fold-over envelopes. Being as MMM has sent out models wearing nothing but body suits and squares of material in the past, seeing a very wearable collection on the runway felt almost controversial!
The final part of the show concentrated on evening dresses that were long, draped and tent-like but amongst these was a knee-length, slim dress that looked to be a combination of elements from the leather biker jacket and chiffon-like, beaded material. This is a collection that merits a visit to the store to see the designs up-close.