Ever since Maison Martin Margiela is related to Renzo Rosso's holding group, their fashion shows have not only become gigantic happening full of A-list people but also heading into a more commercial, less conceptual direction. This said, there is nothing wrong with being more accessible! On the contrary, the autumn-winter 2012/13 collection of Maison Martin Margiela proves to be beautifully efficient, by adding some daywear feeling to Margiela's visionary spirit.
Maison Martin Margiela's recent deal has been to reach out for the label's signature toolbox – trompe l'oeil tailoring and deconstruction – by adding a casual and more wearable dimension to it. Therefor, the autumn-winter 2012/13 pieces are rather styled than constructed.
Most of monochromatic silhouettes are opting for a safe color and fabric palette, by working essentially with navy wool, off white and black shiny silk, camel colored corduroy and a few hints of fox fur, mauve and bright red. You'd also find overemphasized pulled up collars on jumpers and coats, worn with casual fitted pants or shifted skirts with long fronts and high-waisted backs – or vice-versa. Blazers play with our view on proportions by sewing sleeves into pockets or using double-sleeve constructions, that offer an nonchalant “over the shoulder” wear. Dresses are sourcing their inspiration from slashed kimonos, with fabric panels of different lengths, which tend to recreate the Maison's signature deconstructionism. No faux-pas so far, most of Margiela's autumnal outfits being definitely wardrobe-worthy.