Ah, the man/woman thing. The eternal hunt to find a way to blend the two sartorial spheres into one so that neither of them gets the upper hand, and consequently the clothing is imbued with the power of both. Leave it to Maison Martin Margiela, the house famous for its ability to find fashion possibilities in all sorts of unexpected locations, to track down a style that comes pretty close to perfect.
This was done through the repurposing of class in men’s suiting, in particular hardy tweeds. Make that Harris Tweed as it was this brand’s vintage logo that had pride of place on the center of the back- instead of the understated MMM stitch work emblem. Those fine fabrics, in traditional herringbone plaids and winter shades of black, navy, russet red, heather gray were expertly crafting to the female form.
Fantastic hourglass suits accentuated a curvaceous shape both with a nipped in waist and pinched shoulders that were in equal parts pointed and rounded. The stripped lining of a man’s suit jacket became a shift dress given a feminine touch with a lace overlay. While a pair of wide cut tuxedo paints had a clever update. The house used military chevrons down the sides of the legs instead of the traditional vertical stripe.
There was lots to love in this show. An après ski Fair Isle sweater was a winner, as was a vibrant red jacket cut with lining fabric sleeves and a bustier top that was crafted with the waistline of a pair of pants acting as its edge was both odd and endearing. A MMM show wouldn’t be an MMM show if it didn’t have a few quirky bits woven into its work.
This was a strong collection that offered up real options for women without totally losing touch with its idiosyncratic soul.
Watch the show!