Maison Martin Margiela Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 Paris

The realities of compressing a brand known for being eccentric, daring, and at times a bit odd into the confines of creating clothing that will appeal to a mass market, seems to already have an effect on the Maison Martin Margiela brand.

The collaboration between MMM and the clothing chain H&M will be revealed on November 15th, but arguably its influence could be seen during the brand’s spring/summer 2013 runway show. This collection was one of the purest, most reserved, and commercial shows the house has produced in a while.

Even the setting of the show supported the idea of clean slate clothing. The brand literally wrapped the entire inside of a grandiose Parisian manor house with white plastic, revealing only the outlined forms of say a marble fireplace mantel or gilded moldings.

This delineation of shape was one of the major themes of the show. It started with models walking out in column dresses in shades of cement gray, black, or off-white that were so fitted to the body that they needed high slits in the back to make movement possible. The quirky bit was the high slits on the dresses that caused the fabric to curl up a bit in the back and pushed out the hem in the front, forcing it to flap away from the body. Of course this being a Margiela show, that effect was completely intentional.

Another major focus of the show were the pockets. They appeared though transparent side panels on pants, peeking out below tunic tops and could be observed on see-through dresses. The outline on the pockets became a minimalistic embellishment for each of the designs.
The clothing was almost like spotless canvases where each person could envision and transmit their personal esthetic onto the ensembles. And eveningwear buyers will have a rather large canvas to work with as the voluminous A-line gowns enveloped the models like sartorial pop tents.

The show was definitely a safe one. But its untarnished take on fashion also had a soothing Zen-like grace that was appealing.

- Jessica Michault

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