“Straight forward, emotion, passion and it comes from here,” said Rabih Kayrouz motioning to his stomach (i.e. his gut) when asked what he wanted to convey with his collection.
If that means that he stripped back his clothes so that they were free of anything as distracting as embellishments, prints or convoluted construction, then Kayrouz achieved his goal. For this was a minimalistic collection filled with liquid silk gowns, crisp cotton dresses and exquisitely crafted knitwear.
Let’s start with those silk gowns. They showed up in pink or black lined with pink and just gently caressed the body as they fell asymmetrically to the floor. A shorter version in the same shade of pink was cut as a simple shift dress. But by just tucking up a section of the fabric under at the waist, Kayrouz elevated it to a state of grace. In a season filled with white cotton shirt dresses the designer’s offering was rather original, fitted as it was with a wide built in belt in the same crisp fabric. And his knitwear, in particular some raised corrugated sweaters that rounded over the body, were very beautifully done.
Unfortunately, there were quite a few pieces that the designer created using bands of white fabric that he fitted together to create a light tiered effect on slightly more structured dresses, tops and jackets. Regrettably the combination of that particular shade of white, the texture of the fabric, its weight and the size of the bands themselves made the models look as if they were wearing outfits constructed from paper towels. If only one of those elements had been different (color, texture, band width) the association would not have been so glaring.
But putting this minor misstep aside there was so much else in this collection to covet that Kayrouz should be in good stead for next season.