What a ride. By the time the guests were pouring out Brooklyn-facing Pier 36 after Marc by Marc Jacobs, it was clear that a whole new era was at hand for the second line of Marc Jacobs. First, the brand’s founder sat in the front row with bestie Sofia Coppola in support of Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier for their first collection at the helm. As one prominent tweeted before the start of the show, “Why pretend to be backstage?” Why indeed, particularly if you are as confident as he was in his choice of designers.
Taken as a whole, the Alice in Ninja BMX-land was a modern fantasy. But it’s testament to the combined skills of creative director Hillier and womenswear designer Bartley to say that the separates that make up these looks are clear winners. Who wouldn’t want a charcoal knitted dress, a handsome boxy jacket or even the minute little bowed capes? Later on, there even were some beautiful girly skirts – clearly inspired by Tim Burton’s Alice – for any one finding the BMX boots or ninja slippers not quite their speed. That’s not to mention the t-shirts, something which feels like a novelty for a brand that’s famous for its cheap-as-beer novelty items. Elsewhere, some great patches caught the eye, such as “Bunny Hop” or tiger paws repeating all over a tunic dress. It was as merchandisable as ever.
Also, with the full focus on womenswear on the runway, it’s a given that this will be the priority for the brand. And no one was prouder than Jacobs himself, who jumped to his feet to clap as the two women appeared at the end of the runway. Now that Bartley and Hillier have jumped into the rabbit hole, it’s going to be one hell of a ride. Only one question remains: will the name be changed?
Marc by Marc Jacobs Fashion Show Ready To Wear Collection Spring Summer 2014
Marc by Marc Jacobs Fashion Show Ready To Wear Collection Fall Winter 2013
Marc by Marc Jacobs Fashion Show Ready To Wear Collection Spring Summer 2013