Marios Schwab Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2012 London
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Silhouettes were simple, with sensual overtones in body-hugging dresses; lines were straight, with hems ending at the knee. But one could only imagine the time and energy it took to conceptualise the Marios Schwab Fall Winter 2012 collection, which utilised leather, wool, silk, beading, biomorphic patterns, sparkling colour that looked like it was electronically-diffused and other materials and techniques. It was both a visually packed and tactile collection.

Marlene Dietrich was one of the designer’s inspirations. Dresses with geometric prints, perforated dresses with sheer fabric at the chest, and jewel-trimmed necklines and cuffs were clear interpretations of the actress’ costumes, as were sharp suits and hats. Long chiffon layers gave shiny simulation tattoos- a technique the designer has used in the past- a dark and erotic edge, as did leather-accented coats. A leather trench completed the film noir effect; in comparison, a white a mint green dress with a biomorphic pattern that formed a V down the front of a dress added a lighter, refreshing tone to the collection. Zippers along the shoulder, satin trim, skinny padded beltlike accents, and seamlike lines on the chest of a blouse or down the middle of a skirt gave the collection a meticulous and graphic finish.

www.mariosschwab.com

-Ria de Borja


 

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