Marissa Webb Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 New York

Marissa Webb got off to a strong start with her debut collection—no surprise, really, given that the highly intuitive and sharp designer sewed her oats at J.Crew, where she had been head of women’s design. But, as with all designers who leave the comfort of the nest, it’s important to define one’s DNA. Webb did just that, massaging it in a way that her design sensibilities weren’t purposefully reversed simply to set her apart from the House of Mickey Drexler.


That balance of hard and soft was how Weber described her chief motif for spring, where rock ‘n’ roll could be found nestled within the confines of French lace and silk. Clearly detail oriented, there was noticeable attention paid to the seam work of the collection—which focused heavily on daywear and separates, as witnessed in a black and white tweed jacket trimmed in green leather. “Exaggerated fits but at the same time approachable,” described Webb. Pants came in the form of exaggerated palazzo as well as skinny moto zip, but the playfulness was not lost: a ballerina tutu-style skirt that maintained its feminine shape, but in which leather was applied over the tulle beneath.

- Jim Shi