Forgoing her preference for menswear presentations, designer Consuelo Castiglioni brought her Marni collection to life on the catwalk this season. Giving editors and journalists the opportunity to appreciate her quirky aesthetic in action.
This trend means that her beautifully odd 70s color pallet and combos were in full effect and her proportions were artistically challenging. Nothing fixed exactly right, which was just how the designer wanted it. A dissonant offering that made the models look like they existed in that award age when a boy is becoming a man faster than his clothes can keep up with him.
In this way, there was a charm to shirts with extended pointed lapels, full pants that were cropped above the ankles, and thickly woven sweaters with sleeves that looked as if they might have accidentally been shrunken in the wash.
Top marks go to the graphic dynamic footwear. It, too, was a smart blend of urban practicality with design personality. The chunky sock worn with them made a perfect counterpoint.
This was a collection that felt like a solid addition to Castiglioni's lifelong sartorial novel. But perhaps not the beginning of an exciting new chapter.