Walking into the Marni venue to see the walls covered in a forest of sepia-shaded leafless trees, a chill went up the spine. What did this cold and somber woodland indicate about the collection Consuelo Castiglioni was about to send down the catwalk?
Well, it was certainly austere, with a limited color palette that consisted mostly of black, gray and navy used to create clothing that was sophisticated, if aloof. The rounded, slightly voluminous proportions helped to soften the feeling of melancholia just enough to keep the show from becoming too maudlin. As did the poetic prints in floral monochromatic mandala patterns, and the to be expected bare tree prints and a few graphic dresses in a crackled dry earth design.
Perhaps this was a show about rebirth and the arrival of a fresh start? The tree prints that looked to be covered with budding leaves seemed to indicate this was the case. Certainly the recent influx of cash, thanks to Diesel chief Renzo Rosso’s purchase of a majority stake in the brand, could be seen in the abundance of fur used in the collection. It showed up on everything from flat boots, gloves, scarves and collars to dresses, jackets and full blown outerwear.
What was particularly interesting in this collection was the way Castiglioni blended different fabric weights together so seamlessly. Two standouts were a black shift dress that moved from what looked like chiffon to wool and finally a band of fur at the hem, and a coat that started with long haired Shansi and moved into beaver at the bottom for a more organic take.
This was the chicest sartorial take on despondency ever to come down a catwalk.
- Jessica Michault