It is interesting to experience one of Consuelo Castiglioni’s Marni shows after seeing the return of Jil Sander to her signature brand.
Both women experimented with the idea of volume and structure on shapes that had less to do with embracing women’s bodies then enveloping them.
While many designers have turned to fluid fabrics and light layering this season, these two modernists have decided to explore the idea of how to give a sense of legerity to firmer, denser fabrics, while keeping a solid hold on femininity.
But if Sander’s take was minimalistic, Castiglioni gave the idea a zing with graphic energy and textural tension. Her grid patterned coats crafted with jacquard tape, their matching check print dresses as well as the geometric separates and plastic embellished designs all created a pleasurable dissonance. They were designs that should fulfill the sartorial desires for those women who were not satisfied with Sander’s more reserved esthetic.
And again with choice of shape- Sander’s chose circular shapes- Castiglioni turned to the triangle, using fabric that looked more folded than cut to create tiered trapezoid or a-line outfits. Sometimes creating modern day bustles on the back of skirts or undulating peplums on sleeveless tops.
It was a collection that was absolutely faithful to the essence of the Marni brand. A house that has always challenged preconceived notions of beauty and elegance. By continuing to defy designer conformity Marni is as relevant as it ever was.
- Jessica Michault