Mary Katrantzou Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 London
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There was something ethereal and slightly melancholic about this collection, despite the strong, stiff experimental shapes - often resembling deconstructed geisha costumes, with origami-like panels of printed material bound with industrial belts - as Mary Katrantzou sought to explore new expressions in the world of pattern and print. One of the key new shifts was a step away from color, using as its source the black-and-white distorted landscapes of turn-of-the-20th-Century photographers like Edward Steichen and Clarence White, offering a stark contrast to the designer's signature color-charged graphics.
One powerful effect was a series of printed dresses with superposed long printed chiffon overlays, which created a blurring effect in motion.

New pieces that will translate well in the real world included a black mohair dress patterned with white woven lace evoking the graphic latticework of an iron bridge, a long black leather dress with cape sleeves embossed with graphics derived from a city scape print, intarsia knits glistening with iridescent prints, and a structured black jacquard suit with a shadowy pattern of trees. While less catchy than past seasons, the collection was impressive in its artisanal handiwork. It is clear Katrantzou is looking to strip back in order to evolve, but she has to be careful not to stray too far from her brand identity.

- Katya Foreman
 

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