Some fashion shows are all about distracting with the front row, some shows need theatrics to distract, others do very clever clothes. Mary Katrantzou is in the really clever clothes category. Fashion evolves and tastes change and, in an age where everything is so disposable and instant, Katrantzou explores the opposite in textures and technique using the one thing that we all crave and money can’t buy: time.
It was a complex thought process behind this collection, a mix of opposites, such as the idea of horror vacui (a fear of empty space) versus covering every surface area of the design in texture and print. The mix of block colour to mega print, raw flannel to flocking, flouncing, sequins and PVCs ruffled like Victorian lace made this a collection to make you think. The catwalk path was not carpeted, but lined with pink soundproofing foam, and the opening look squished over the surface in grey – a fitted and sleeveless bodice worn with matching hobble skirt gathered above the knee – but rather than looking to the past, its Victoriana was shot into the future with the pink foam triangles cut into a panel placed on the right hip. From ruffles to embossing, over layers of lace to highly patterned duffle coats, textile and inverting and reversing ideas flowed throughout the collection. Bright pinks, reds, mint greens and acidic mustards and blues contrasted futuristic fabrics with gothic and rococo embellishments emphasised how a show of opposites could create modernism out of maximalist.