Applause is rare at shows as everyone has iPhones that need to capture every moment. But Mary Katrantzou’s spring summer 2015 collection was rare in many senses, and the atmosphere was electrifying as guests watched, spontaneous flurries of applause rustling throughout the disused fire station at the show. A fashion moment is a rare and mythical thing, but this was a stand out collection.
It was inspired by ancient geologic times, a supercontinent of ‘Pangega,' the mass that was all the earth, and Panthalassa that was all the ocean. This reference from 200 million years ago went on to inform her most accomplished collection to date and moved her from ‘print designer’ to ‘Fashion Designer’ with capital letters.
Crunching around a volcanic lava-like glinting runway out worldly beauties – such as Kristy Owen and Audrey Marnay - were the goddesses from this unknown world. Raw, earthy nude tones, floating into oceanic, coral shades and embroidered abstraction to crustaceans. But this was not some underwater parade, it was magical in its modernity, wearability and showcased techniques such as bonded glitter tulle and leather skirts, layered lizard-like lace, or woven lace to mimic foliage. Including shirt dresses, flowing pleats, and pieces that shifted fashion as much as the tectonic plates, thiswas a collection that took her into the super-league as embroidery, layering, paneling, and couture-like techniques made you wonder how, and they were contemporary and cool. The scrum to get backstage, and the gaggle of people waiting to congratulate her, proved it wasn’t one but many who felt they had witnessed something out of this world.