Mary, Mary, quite contrary mixed the cosmic and chaos for her Spring/Summer collection that’s inspiration was “constructed to confuse.” Staged in the Granary Building, home to Central Saint Martins, the floor was covered in crunching sticky blue plastic against an imposing backdrop of tilting mirrors, giving a distorted view of the scene and its voyeurs. From the chaos of behind to the serenity on the runway, ethereal sequin covered chiffon dresses were strewn with intricate prints that looked like a contemporary twist of Giotto’s frescos and twinkling night skies.
Vibrato strings serenaded the couture-like constructions that glinted as they moved, a hybrid of Balkan, Spanish, and Romanian attire that mixed a labyrinth of techniques and time-traveled across godets of print, chain-embroidered pinstripes, and a cosmos of craftsmanship. Ribbon ties, metallic inserts, and piping in glowing gem colors mixed with candlelight complimenting shades, and a micro-fine metallic quilt effect that shifted across a million shades with each step. Floral crinkle sleeves contrasted with sequins, patchworks of print, colors and textures that all balanced on floral and snakeskin dipped boots with a metallic telescope-like heel.
As Mary’s technical appreciation, and signature, grows, so does the maze of her imagination, and the eager exploration of unchartered territory. The collection closed with celestial block colors, burgundy with red, midnight with aqua blue, and black with color pattern ruffles that fluttered like a bustle as light as pollen in the wind in a show as beautiful as it was bewitching, showcasing an extraordinary aesthetic journey.