Masha Ma Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 Paris

After a remarked debut in London, Central Saint Martins graduate Masha Ma premiered in Paris last season with a poetic yet graphically powerful.

As many designers of the younger generation, it is not only the garment or its prints that interest Ma, but also the transcription of a movement into fabric. In her case, it was the movements of betta fish and how "in the midst of their violent battle a spectacular scene of color and movement is created," as stated in her show notes.

Less constrained than her fall/winter 2012, this season is nonetheless an exercise in voluntary constriction. The use of zippers placed between the skirt, body, and its kick flare allows for an evolutivity in styling, even without guidance for the designer, and continues the variations within a single garment.

The very organic wide ruffles, rippling as the models walk, echoed throughout the collection. Construction in this collection, is everything, creating a play between softly tailored pieces layered, or even sandwiched between sculptured elements. Constrained fluidity hinges on cuts that are precise, else they appear artificial, which is not the case here.

The rippling lines continue from peplum to shoe, with a collaboration between Ma and United Nude, fast becoming the shoemaker of choice for the conceptual edge.

- Lily Templeton

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