Set under the opulent, gold deco mosaiqued ceiling at The Criterion, you stepped away from the hustle and bustle of Piccadilly and into the beautiful imagination of Matthew Williamson with a collection that journeyed to his bohemian best.
His starting point this season the twelve signs of the zodiac, the mystic symbols and characteristics inspiring his muse, as much as his embroidery motifs. Jewelled, shimmering shades of different birth stones, garnet, amethyst, jade and sapphire, directed his rich palette.
Shaggy Mongolian and leopard printed furs were layered with floral print chiffon shirts and worn with intricately patterned cigarette pants or billowing, floor length gowns. Jumpsuits worn with brocade twisted as belts, coats shrugged over shoulders, and there was an elegant air of nonchalance to his silk botanical floral prints that were punctuated with richly spun cardamom embroidered swirls.
Williamson is king of colour and this season more than ever stood out from the sea of black with his watery, silk full length shirt dresses, tied at waist with obi like belts and either plunging into deep v-necks or slashing up to the thigh with exaggerated split length hems giving provocative flashes of skin. Dusty pinks, hot Indian summer fuchsias and spicy mustard silks twisted together and were finished with gold mirrored shades. Gold bullion thread work embroidery, with angel wing motifs, folkloric midsummer night nymphs that looked almost etched onto the silk prints and fringed, block colour Bionda Castana ankle boots, Matthew Williamson showed that autumn and winter didn't need to hide without the warmth of the summer sun.