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Maxime Simoens Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 Paris

For his second ready to wear collection Maxime Simoëns toughened things up a bit from last season. Gone were the full skirted dresses, the pretty watercolor prints and the shimmering sequins. This time the Frenchman was giving fashion some tough as nails, take no prisoners glamazons who own the Paris party scene.

The collection was all about graphic architectural designs that used segmentation as a central theme. Simoëns would delineate sections of his short sexy dresses, second skin pants and fitted jackets via matte and shine fabrics, color blocking and beaded embellishments. It’s a choice that made for strong statement pieces that have no intention of being ignored.

The leitmotif of the show was the zipper. It showed up everywhere and instantly added another level of sexy toughness to each look. And they weren’t there just as ornamentation. They might have encircled the feet on high heels and sandals and finished off the hem on short skirts, but they also showed up wrapped around slim pants - left open like an updated pair of ripped jeans. Other clever uses of the zipper were when it curved over the hips of a skirt to form a central slit or when it sliced through the middle of a glossy gray jacket.

When the designer wasn’t employing zippers, he gave his collection a bit of movement in some fringed short dresses and got some great graphic details though grid patterned beadwork that brought to mind the designer’s barcode logo.

Simoëns already has a devoted group of French ingénues who wear his designs religiously. It wouldn’t be surprising to see that click turn into a more international crowd in the near future.