Meadham Kirchhoff Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 London
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Grim fairytales and occult overtones took over the Meadham Kirchhoff catwalk this season, throning the designers, yet again, as London's very own l'enfant terrible. The cover of the credit sheet bared a pink hexagram, a six-pointed star; on the back was a Latin banner that read "Ante Dominai" and the message "God," "Boddah," "velvet," and "mother" stringed together in a single cryptic ribbon motif. A little probing revealed that the sign was a Rose Croix of the 'Brethren of Rosy Cross', a super secret occult sect of philosophers. Whatever their significance may be, the breadcrumbs have led us enraptured by this trip into the underworld.

Eyes fixated on the runway that was littered with stalks of roses against a backdrop of a mossy garden fence. Models with Bavarian pigtails wore gothic lace trimmed baby doll dresses under patent leather coats and knee-high coloured stockings. Oversized circular hats balanced the deliberately ornate textures from elaborate rose motifs, gold lamé to snake skin. It was Sunday church gone wrong but in the most enviably irreverent sense. Flaming red heads with their elbow-length gloves and contrastingly sweet ribbon details, created visual tension prompting us to peer in deeper. Homage to folkloric craft like in the manipulation of the lace and placement of the corsets boasted the duo's superior technical skills.

It is probably heretical to associate deity with the occult - but as the saying goes "God is in the details" - and Meadham Kirchhoff this season bared as many enigmas in the technical construction as its fascinating storyline.

- Nabil Aliffi




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