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MELINDAGLOSS Menswear Fall Winter 2015 Paris

For next fall, Melindagloss continues to capitalize on their particular flavor of Parisian low-key luxury, where craft is paramount. For their Friday presentation, models hung around the stately salons of the Mona Bismark Foundation, painting surrealist tableaux. The decor played on old school Francophilia, with wheelbarrow-sized coins and giant cigarette butts with a tell-tale slick of red lipstick denoting the Parisian femme fatale. Handfuls of 100 and 200 Franc bills — the ones bearing the faces of Delacroix and Montesquieu, no doubt those in circulation in the childhood of Melindagloss founders Rémi de Laquitaine et Mathieu de Ménonville — were strewn on the Persian rugs, attracting the eye towards the brand's first shoes. In another room, a paintress, surrounded by bare-chested painted graces and male models, drew the portrait of a cape clad youth. A witty-wistful take on the tenets of Paris' cultural life, in all its decadent vitality, the props served to highlight the contemporary spin to their classics. It doesn't get more in the now than printed silk pajama slacks paired with a white shirt, a cardigan and leather sneakers. Or loafers worn with an elegant version of sweatpants. Elsewhere, they offered roomy overcoats, slightly oversized jackets that fell between nonchalance and carelessness. Theirs is a slightly more nostalgic view than their main competitors – looking at AMI to name but one, but if the retail numbers are to be believed, that vision is shared by growing numbers. The practiced ease with which the designers court the contemporary classic market is thrilling, and at this level, competition is present but still sparse. In any case, they are ones to be watched.