Menswear on The Rise as Gucci and Ferragamo Return

Amid a relaxed fashion week that opened with the 25th anniversary of Dsquared2 and closed with the return of Gucci to the Milan menswear calendar, designers were upbeat about the future of menswear.

 

According to a report released by market research group Euromonitor International, the menswear sector is forecast to grow 22 percent by 2024 and inched up 3 percent in 2019 versus 2018. 

 

“Growth in the menswear sector is accelerating faster than womens.  Driving the trend are the under-35 consumers and the demand for streetwear,” said Carlo Capasa, president of Italy’s fashion chamber Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. “Buyers this week were up 20 percent, most of them from Japan, South Korea, China, the United States and the UK,” Capasa added, from his seat  in between pool tables at a billiards/caffe’ where gangster-cool, emerging act, Magliano’s fall winter show took place. Despite the signals, Italians menswear sales are expected to post a modest rise in sales of 0.3 percent in 2019, Capasa said.  

 

Between January 10 and 14, Milan hosted 26 catwalk shows and 46 presentations, where streetwear, tech-infused outerwear, sustainable, eco fashions and unisex designs took center stage.    

 

As part of a larger strategy to infuse Milan Men's Fashion shows with fresh and international names and attract more buyers, Italy's fashion chamber  linked up with its British counterpart the British Fashion Council to bring a group of ten emerging British talents to showcase here. London-based brand AlexanderMcQueen, as well as 29-year-old Samuel Ross of A-Cold-Wall* were major highlights.  The latter showcased a lineup that challenged vanguard brands and established Italian peers. A departure from the ongoing streetweartrend, Ross unfurled a savvy collection that included lush, avant-garde knits, safari jackets and elegantly tailored trench coats.  

 

Italian players like Marco de Vincenzo went out on a limb, showing only his second menswear collection - one that infused his flair for Italian cultural references and pizzazz with fine tailoring and hints of sportswear. 

 

“The first collection I did at Pitti was just a taste and I think buyers are starting to understand where we are going with this,” de Vincenzo said after the show Tuesday.  “I am very confident about the menswear line and it becoming a big part of my brand.” 

 

Historic brands couldn't stay away from the calendar, as a challenging market and the pressure to compete on an international stage to lure Chinese buyers (considered the future of the luxury market) via all possible channels is at an all time high. 

 

Ferragamo’s geo Micaela Le Divelec Lemmi told WWD this week that the decision to return to the menswear calendar was  “a natural consequence” of last year’s decision, to give the brand’s men’s wear “all the dignity it deserves,” adding that Ferragamo’s men’s wear division now accounts for around 40 or 45 percent of sales, depending on the region. 

 

Another major draw to menswear week was the inaugural edition WSM (WHITE SUSTAINABLE MILANO), the world’s first high-end trade fair that was attended by 4000 visitors and a noted presence of Asian buyers.  The event, which was supported by Italy’s fashion chamber and its buyers association, also hosted a series of talks and welcomed 20 leading tech and fashion startups.  

 

For many newcomers and young acts like Chinese designer Miaoran and Danish Han Kjøbenhavn, connecting with consumers in an emotional, cerebral way was more important than revenues or the commercial aspect. 

 

Showing in a damp warehouse on the outskirts of Milan, Kjøbenhavn shocked a small crowd of curious fashion goers with a macabre show that kicked off with a screeching, heavy metal performance around a pile of roped sacks that seemed more like body bags than a mound of trash.  Zombie-like models made-up with ghoulish, Hollywood-quality special effects  paraded around the stage.  Kjøbenhavn  said this was a reaction to the cold, dark northern European winters.  “It’s important for me to convey emotion and what I am feeling to the audience. You have to give a part of yourself.” 

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Why Nike Won Chinese New Year
By Jing Zhang
For fashion brands, Chinese New Year can be a lucrative period; it is considered a lucky time for...
By Jing Zhang
For fashion brands, Chinese New Year can be a lucrative period; it is considered a lucky time for the Chinese to buy new clothing. The likes of Burberry and Marni regularly release capsules celebrating the new cycle of the Chinese zodiac. Red coloured fashions and accessories (the colour beckons...
For fashion brands, Chinese New Year can be a lucrative period; it is considered a lucky time for the Chinese to buy new clothing. The likes of Burberry and Marni regularly release capsules celebrating the new cycle of the Chinese zodiac. Red coloured fashions and accessories (the colour beckons luck) are everywhere in luxury stores and street markets, as are cute animations of the animal we’re...
Alessandra Facchinetti Joins Harlan+Holden
By Alice Ierace
As it embarks on its fifth year, further expansion within its three markets and a conscious...
By Alice Ierace
As it embarks on its fifth year, further expansion within its three markets and a conscious outlook on online, Seoul-based clothing brand harlan + holden has appointed Alessandra Facchinetti as its first Creative Director.“We are very pleased to announce Alessandra Facchinetti as Creative...
As it embarks on its fifth year, further expansion within its three markets and a conscious outlook on online, Seoul-based clothing brand harlan + holden has appointed Alessandra Facchinetti as its first Creative Director.“We are very pleased to announce Alessandra Facchinetti as Creative Director of harlan + holden. Beyond her immense talent, creativity and experience, we found a partner and...
Matteo De Rosa Joins Dries Van Noten
By Alice Ierace
As one of Puig’s first moves since the acquisition of a majority stake of Dries Van Noten back in...
By Alice Ierace
As one of Puig’s first moves since the acquisition of a majority stake of Dries Van Noten back in 2018, the Spanish company appointed Italian Matteo De Rosa as the fashion brand’s latest President, effective February 1st.De Rosa brings a wealth of experience to the role, which includes six years...
As one of Puig’s first moves since the acquisition of a majority stake of Dries Van Noten back in 2018, the Spanish company appointed Italian Matteo De Rosa as the fashion brand’s latest President, effective February 1st.De Rosa brings a wealth of experience to the role, which includes six years at renowned global retailer Ports 1961 (where he also held the title of Managing Director during his...
Hyerès’ Fashion Finalists: Beyond Traditional Beauty
By Rebecca Voight
France’s upcoming Hyères International Fashion, Photography and Accessories Festival  (April...
By Rebecca Voight
France’s upcoming Hyères International Fashion, Photography and Accessories Festival  (April 23-27) turns thirty-five this year. Like the stylish world it celebrates, the finalists are making their mark with diversity, original materials, artisanal expertise and personal vision. Half of the...
France’s upcoming Hyères International Fashion, Photography and Accessories Festival  (April 23-27) turns thirty-five this year. Like the stylish world it celebrates, the finalists are making their mark with diversity, original materials, artisanal expertise and personal vision. Half of the shortlisted designers, five out of ten, are from France, which shows a marked increase. The rest,...
Mikimoto and Comme des Garçons Unveil Fine Jewellery Collaboration
For the first time in Comme des Garçons' history, fashion designer Rei Kawakubo – the mastermind...
For the first time in Comme des Garçons' history, fashion designer Rei Kawakubo – the mastermind behind both the label and Dover Street Market concept stores – has created a fine jewellery capsule collection using Mikimoto pearls.The collection represents the first stage of a two-year partnership...
For the first time in Comme des Garçons' history, fashion designer Rei Kawakubo – the mastermind behind both the label and Dover Street Market concept stores – has created a fine jewellery capsule collection using Mikimoto pearls.The collection represents the first stage of a two-year partnership between the two brands and aims at blending Kawakubo’s avant-garde approach with the heritage of...
Jean-Paul Gaultier's Last Show
By Gianluca Cantaro
L'Enfant Terrible de la mode never stops to surprise. He dropped the bomb announcing over social...
By Gianluca Cantaro
By Gianluca Cantaro
L'Enfant Terrible de la mode never stops to surprise. He dropped the bomb announcing over social media that this 50th anniversary Haute Couture show would've been the last, shaking up the whole fashion system. Then, continuing with his subtle approach, he started the celebration with the (fake)...
L'Enfant Terrible de la mode never stops to surprise. He dropped the bomb announcing over social media that this 50th anniversary Haute Couture show would've been the last, shaking up the whole fashion system. Then, continuing with his subtle approach, he started the celebration with the (fake) funeral scene from William Klein's 1966 movie "Who Are You, Polly Maggoo?." Lights down, curtain up...
Jean-Pierre Blanc's Unfailing Support for Creation
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
In 1986, a then young Jean-Pierre Blanc imagined the Hyères Festival while studying. Thirty-five...
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
In 1986, a then young Jean-Pierre Blanc imagined the Hyères Festival while studying. Thirty-five editions later, the fashion design and photography event which traditionally takes place on the French Riviera can be considered one of the fashion industry's leading events for the discovery of...
In 1986, a then young Jean-Pierre Blanc imagined the Hyères Festival while studying. Thirty-five editions later, the fashion design and photography event which traditionally takes place on the French Riviera can be considered one of the fashion industry's leading events for the discovery of up-and-coming talents. This year, the Festival will take place from April 23rd to 27th. Jonathan Anderson...
High Jewelry's Promising Prospects
By Elisabeta Tudor
Once reserved exclusively for an aristocratic and noble elite, jewellery has become increasingly...
By Elisabeta Tudor
Once reserved exclusively for an aristocratic and noble elite, jewellery has become increasingly democratic since the early 1990s. Many high jewellery brands such as Cartier, Tiffany & Co, Bulgari, and Boucheron have all experienced unprecedented growth during this period and inspired several...
Once reserved exclusively for an aristocratic and noble elite, jewellery has become increasingly democratic since the early 1990s. Many high jewellery brands such as Cartier, Tiffany & Co, Bulgari, and Boucheron have all experienced unprecedented growth during this period and inspired several iconic luxury Maisons — namely Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Gucci, and Giorgio Armani — to develop...