Michael Bastian Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 New York

“I wanted to scrap the whole notion that I’m just a preppy designer.” A powerful statement by Michael Bastian, a man who’s fast built a career and image marked by Americana goodness. The results, however, illustrated faultlessly that the Ralph Lauren alum is capable of more than just rugby stripes and herringbone blazers.

The show’s original concept was inspired by Helen Frankenthaler, the American abstract expressionist painter who died in December, said Bastian. “But then in January/February it took a turn to Fire Island pool party circa 1980s and then a giraffe was infused because of a picture we had of Betty White with one in the office.” Conclusion: inspiration points were loose this season. “Nothing too literal,” Bastian noted.

So whether it was a denim cotton wrap cardigan, washed cotton peacoat, “Indian wedding” knit Henley or mélange fleece motorcycle jacket, the offerings were diverse to say the least. But when there’s so much to covet—not to mention man flesh swaggering down the runway—the more, the merrier. A nice moment was Noah Mills, who closed the show in a divine Champagne shawl collar dinner jacket and a pair of black-and-natural “giraffe” tassel loafers (an ongoing collaboration with Stubbs & Wootton). And some good news for Bastian loyalists: the terrific washed cotton linen suits will retail for an impressive (and affordable) $750.

“This collection pushed something in me a little harder,” said Bastian backstage. He noted the legacies established by two American fashion giants: Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. “One is so provocative and the other, so elegant,” he said ever so slyly. “I wanted to go toward the sexy.”

- Jim Shi