In a Paris season when most of the big established menswear brands produced collections that felt more like line extensions rather then sartorial revolutions, some of the smaller independent houses have really started to shine. Case in point: Miharayasuhiro.
Mihara has long been a favorite with fashion insiders who love his poetic, reflective and intellectual approach to contemporary fashion. This season, just like the big houses, he also referenced his past work. The difference being he presented his hallmark designs in an inspired new way.
Calling the collection “Fragment” the designer wanted to explore the concept of how memories are never truly a whole picture of the past. This idea manifested itself on the catwalk in a number of clever alterations. There were the tiered, pieced together denim designs with frayed edges looking like scars. Blue hued hoodies and t-shirts cane tie-dyed for a bleached out effect. A light weight open coat was melded into a gray zip closed sweatshirt. And paisley patterns would bend and swirl into animal prints on jackets and tops.
But the designer saved the best (in an already outstanding show) for last. He produced an original print from a new fabric technique the press notes called “damaged jacquard”. It consisted of a two-tiered fabric. Underneath sat a paisley jacquard which was covered in a unadorned textile. Then randomly the top layer would be pealed back to reveal the patterned textile below. Basically it was the sartorial equivalent of pulling sections of wallpaper off a wall to expose the older pattern hiding below. The effect was a riveting twist on a striped suit or jacket. And it dovetailed perfectly with Mihara’s desire to remember the past, even if it is an imperfect version of it. In fact, sometimes those are the best kinds of memories.
The final result was an exceptionally good collection that was a winning sartorial hybrid. It used the power of the past to forge a strong path into fashion’s future.