The final day of the Milan menswear shows unfurled in a botanical dream. The beauty of the hidden and private parks and gardens that set the stage for the last day of top shows were simply among some of the best locations ever.
Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Milan. Photos by Alessandro Garofalo for NOWFASHION.
Giorgio Armani moved away from his eponymous Teatro designed by architect Tadao Ando. Instead, he brought the audience to Palazzo Orsini (one of the most prestigious palaces in central Milan and the headquarters of the company since 1996) to unveil the eighteenth-century garden of his residence, opening its doors for the first time for a fashion show.
“The clothes must be seen on a body, not hung on racks, so here I will explain my world to you,” pointed out the designer backstage before the show.
“The Giorgio Armani collection is my personal vision of the highest concept of luxury. Here, I express myself best, without any boundaries. On the other hand, Emporio Armani is my idea of accessible luxury where I consider every single facet of the modern, fragmented society: markets, people, cultures, and every aspect of the communities. It’s not the cheaper version of the main line, but a different language.”
Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
That’s why, this season, Palazzo Orsini became the venue for a very emotional show that depicted a brave, smart, and sexy man.
“This time I wanted to dare, thinking about the summer, when freedom is at its best,” said Armani.
Examples? The waistcoat worn over bare skin and/or under the jacket.
The shirts, instead, became ultra-wide to be worn with slouchy trousers. The silhouette was fluid and all the slim fits didn’t find any place in this collection.
Earlier in the morning, in the gardens of Villa Reale, the notes of “BTTB (Back to the Basics),” the album from 1999 by Ryuichi Sakamoto, enchanted the skies of Milan.
Fendi Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
The Roman maison moved from the comfort of their headquarters in southern Milan to showcase this collection that involved the collaboration with director Luca Guadagnino, a long-time friend of the House of Fendi. Guadagnino drew the prints and directed the show.
The collection in itself was a journey through the botanical and gardening worlds – a walk following imaginary gardeners through the greenery.
Everything was balanced and fresh. Made with just natural fabrics and a palette in shades of green, khaki, black with touches of denim. “I took my men en plein air,” explained Silvia Venturini Fendi before the show.
Fendi Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Milan. Photos by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
“We are always connected so I wanted to give him light, air, and open spaces to disconnect from the virtual space of our devices. A step into the wild to get back the pleasures of the real world and its beauties. It is reflected also in the collection with braiding and holes that make the body breathe.”
The catchy aesthetic infused the collection with a modern look with a lot of references to the outdoors, mixed with urban details that made it more solid in order to render it both fashionable and sellable: most of the pockets of the jackets and cargo pants were detachable, the tailored work wear was light and soft, and there was also a collaboration with the Japanese footwear brand Moonstar for utilitarian trainers made with canvas and rubber.
Pal Zileri Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Milan. Photos by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
In contrast, Rocco Iannone, creative director of Pal Zileri, took the crowd inside a Turkish bath-turned-nightclub. No nature, but references from Venetian painter Giambattista Tiepolo’s life were prominent. The artist used to write a secret diary in which he detailed his innermost thoughts. With this as a building block, Iannone launched a similar path in order to conceive this collection. A mix of his passions and vision could be assimilated to the likes of the artistic genre of Capriccio, which is also the title of the collection. Different worlds collided and the 80s became a central focus. Big volumes, powerful shoulders, and heavy juta textures all mixed with bermudas and sleeveless blazers. This time the designer’s creativity seemed a bit restrained, considering the previous three seasons. Pal Zileri bravely decided to tell a new story in the tailoring world by choosing Iannone, but it would be a pity to not maximise his vision to its full potential.