Milan Day Two: Olympic Emporio Armani

Giorgio Armani ushered in the 2020 Summer Olympics by presenting the official EA7 Emporio Armani uniforms that will debut at the Tokyo games. 

Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.


The show closed as 20 Olympic and 9 Paralympic Team Italy athletes paraded down the runway wearing night blue tracksuits. 

The tracksuits were adorned with an Italian flag designed into the iconic imperial Japanese rising sun, with the word ITALIA emblazoned on the back with the typography inspired by the Japanese torī.

Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.


The Emporio collection itself was fresher and more up-to-date – a mix between natural materials like linen and jute, juxtaposed with organza surfaces and parachute pants.  

Natural textures with futuristic shapes underlined the freedom of individual interpretation, and as a result this collection signified the new vision of the Emporio Armani world. 


Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.

Dolce & Gabbana unleashed a fashion safari with a trip through the savannas and jungles. The show culminated in colorful fifties looks with pin-up prints on pajama shirts and suits. The show began with a series of khaki looks made with the Dolce & Gabbana signature sartorial flair that conjures Domenico Dolce’s Sicilian origins.  

High-waisted pants in zoot suit style, wide collars, and knickerbockers infused the collection with a dose of nostalgia.  


M1992 Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Milan. Photos by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.

Day 2 kicked off in a deconsecrated church with the M1992 collection designed by Dorian Tarantini. A beautiful and balanced collection took the fashion world on a journey that rediscovered the traditional men’s wardrobe, updated, of course, for the new generation. 

Tarantini filtered the heritage of the suits and the ties (made in collaboration with the famous Neapolitan tie makers Marinella) through the lens of his music and rave background mixing reference from his beloved 80s and 90s. 

The designer also analyzed maxi prints through his creations, exploring the advent of the paparazzi and the rise of celebrity exposure. Tailoring and loud prints coexisted perfectly; the creative DJ and night clubber is taking this brand, that started out as a bet, to a higher level of creativity that represents the best wave Milan has seen so far. 

Trussardi Archive + Now 3 Spring/Summer 2020 collection. Photos: Courtesy of PR.


Across town, the third chapter of Archive+Now project by Trussardi introduced the capsule collection by Milanese creative and designer Giorgio Di Salvo, founder of the brand United Standard. This follows a previous collaboration with Giulia and Camilla Venturini, founders of the handbag brand Medea and the mysterious visionary IG account @checkinginvoices

Di Salvo went through the iconic Trussardi pieces from the 90s, refreshed them and updated the logo, in order to make a modern statement. 

Elsewhere, a series of smart and sellable accessories with the greyhound dog turned into a snap-hook, buckle or d-ring was in-tune with today’s trends, which will hit the stores in January. 

In a crowded space on the outskirts of the city center, Francesco Risso told the story of an impossible marriage between Truman Capote and Ernesto “Che” Guevara, the first abandoning the world of flamingos to enter the dangerous jungles of radicalism of the second. 


Marni Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Milan. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.

Sweetness juxtaposed by roughness. The collection was punctuated by military green and camouflage, while resized preppy striped sweaters and shirts infused a dose of levity. The collection was entitled Act 1, in honor of Marni’s latest project: the plastic garbage collection that the artist Judith Hopf will turn into the setting of the brand’s next show – Act 2.  Recycling has always been an important topic at Marni, even when Consuelo Castiglioni, its founder, was at the helm. Today, the runway was dominated by patchwork hats crafted with spare pieces of random materials – somewhat of a fetish piece.  

Risso’s vision is beautiful and complex but the result of the show was a bit confused and elementary. 


Versace Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Milan. Photo by Guilaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.

As the sun set on Milan, the Versace show told the story about the personal growth of a boy and his evolution into manhood. The metaphor of his affirmation was the supercar both on display and printed onto suits and pants. 

This idea of “empowerment” was also illustrated through Versace’s tailoring that included quirky adornments like plastic details. Some suits stood out on the runway, in striking form, sewn half black and half Prince of Wales prints. 

Donatella dedicated the collection to her friend Keith Flint, the leader of the band Prodigy. Models’ hairdos were styled in his honor to further highlight the friendship between Flint and Versace. 

After that, the collection lost its sense of coherence and instead was a series of reminders of Versace’s old codes and styles of the past. Versace already speaks a very strong language, so the abundance of references was not really necessary for this show, nor will it be for seasons to come.   

It almost seemed like the brand was worried about losing its identity. 

Marcelo Burlon Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Milan. Photo by Alessandro Garofalo for NOWFASHION.


Finishing off the day, Marcelo Burlon stuck to his pure street style roots, keeping his language alive and vibrant. The set was mesmerizing: staged in the massive Milan fair grounds the runway rotated around the installation by the artist Edoardo Tresoldi. At the show, a suspended cathedral crafted with wire mesh was made to look like a hologram. 

The show was entitled “Techno Folk” and was full of mixed tie-dyes, rave acid colors, and elements of fine tailoring mixed with cylcingwear. Overall, Burlon’s vision was expressed beyond the collection. It was clear his casting was a vehicle to express his ideas. More than half of the casting included non-Caucasian models and most of them were first generation Italians. The designer has always supported diversity and with this choice, he affirmed his political stance amid a complex international situation.

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