Milan: Feeling Warm & Fuzzy Inside and Out!
It’s the Fall/Winter season therefore coats make up a strong strand of the collections – much like the dress tends to take centre stage for spring and summer. The USP of outerwear this time, however, is the fluff, fuzz and fur that spills out at collars and cuffs on shearling and aviator styles. With more than a hint of Eternal Sunshine of The Spotless Mind about them - Prada, most notably - they’ve been bright and colourful. Very bright and very colourful. Like Versace’s vivid collars in red and orange and blue, among a slick sportswear slogan-ed collection.
The Etro Fall/Winter 2017 ready-to-wear show in Milan (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)
Etro had a mountain traveller spirit, such as collars upon a patchwork canvas or quilted print and pattern. This collection saw the heritage house really play up its signature paisley and take it on one big adventure of exploration. As such, it was a traditional Etro collection: eclectic and layered.
At Blugirl it was all about clashing. Leopard print with turquoise fluff, or green fuzz on a printed robe number - this was a brash dress-up wardrobe that took someone brave to wear it. As did that of Marco de Vincenzo, who is surely the master of colour and texture in Milan. A designer whose star is on the rise, his collections are becoming more extensive each season.
“Every season is a new story. Tomorrow, for me, this collection doesn’t exist anymore and I start to project something new,” explained the designer backstage. “This season there was a story in my mind about the future seen through the eyes of a woman living in the past, so we had lots of classic references – pearls, tartan, fur, pleated skirts. Everything we consider classic but are always trying to make it new with a twist and a touch.” Because what De Vincenzo was actually doing was playing a time travel game with fashion. So all of these elements suddenly had a layer of newness. Pearls encased in tubes, glittery field boots, sneaker-ballet-pump hybrids (which really, really worked, oddly). And, of course, there were those coats: striped fur ones, the opening look depicting a galactic vista; those dripping with glitter strands, or those with a wild vibrancy in leopard.
The Marco de Vincenzo Fall/Winter 2017 ready-to-wear show in Milan (by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)
Over at Diesel Black Gold, the attitude was very early Noughties – long skirts with slits at the back teamed with these long coats with big collars and cuffs. With a slightly Matrix feel, plus Prada’s dip into the era earlier in the week, could it finally be time to wave goodbye to Nineties nostalgia? Are we creeping forward in time?
And when it came to great outerwear sans the fluffy stuff, one only needed to look to Tod’s. The epitome of outdoor elegance, there came an upgrade on the traditional quilted jacket, morphing into fashion puffa styles. Trenches and anoraks met in the middle for leather (obviously) glossy numbers, retro and oversized leather jackets were in there too. The thing about Tod’s is it’s one of those brands it’s easy to think of merely in traditional and functional terms. But this was a high-fashion reinvention for the season ahead that was slick and focused.