There weren't any heated altercations like there were in New York, but Milan was on fire like never before. Here are some events that topped the RTW Spring/Summer 2019 scene.
Prada Spring/Summer 2019 show in Milan. Photos by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
Miuccia Prada was the toast of the town after she put the Miuccia back into the Prada label. Her Spring/Summer was more girly, nostalgic, dreamy, and maybe even back to her roots, than it has been in a long time. Perhaps the most standout ensemble was a satin A-line skirt paired with a plunging, banded bodysuit and chunky headband made out of material the brand now uses for coats. There were quirky urban prints, new, yet vintage looking renditions of the Prada logo, splashes of intricate adornments like the sci-fi floral sequins that she’s known for and innovative nylon outfits designed by international architects. Spectators felt like this was really HER.
Moncler Genius by Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2019. Photos: Courtesy of PR.
Moncler unfurled the second edition of its Genius project that featured a series of films to showcase its latest round of collaborations with Simone Rocha, Craig Green, and Noir Kei Ninomiya. Guests were led into several rooms of an old industrial space to view floor-to-ceiling video projections of the meaning behind the clothes. Some left us all pondering ... like Rocha’s abstract film for featuring models who were gardening and rearranging plastic in the soil wearing floral dresses and aprons with veiled hats.
Monica Bellucci at the Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2019 show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
A procession of black veiled women, accompanied by the low, melancholy bell tolling, kicked off the Dolce & Gabbana runway show, taking us back to the small, baroque streets of Domenico Dolce’s native Sicily. Monica Bellucci, Carla Bruni, Isabella Rossellini and fam, as well as plus-sized model Ashley Graham, headlined the show that featured real people of all shapes and sizes. The collection was inspired by the culture surrounding “The Leopard,” a novel that recalls the last days of the dominance of Sicilian nobility, after Italy’s reunification.
Backstage at the Missoni Spring/Summer 2019 show in Milan. Photos by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
After selling a large part of their company to an Italian fund, the family can finally breathe a bit and staged a 65th anniversary show overlooking Milan’s new modern skyline. As the guests enjoyed the night breeze, pianist Michael Nyman filled the air with nostalgic tunes. The collection featured men’s and women’s looks, in soft pastels and transparent, sinewy numbers that pointed to the brand’s rebirth.
Shalom Harlow at the Versace Spring/Summer 2019 show in Milan. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
Rumors swirled that the house will be sold in the near term, but that didn't stop Donatella from owning it on the runway. “She is always THAT woman. The one who is never afraid,” said the Versace press release prior to the show. A trailblazer for women’s rights, Donatella is known to push the envelope and break barriers when it comes to race and equality. Her show was a mix of racy, upbeat looks like off the shoulder dresses, and more conservative ones like pantsuits and longer, floral dresses. On the same token, the model lineup featured the fabulous four: Kaia, Kendall, Bella, and Gigi, as well as Shalom Harlow, who closed the show to loud applause.
Marni Spring/Summer 2019 show in Milan. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
Francesco Risso did not have an easy job when he inherited the Marni label from Consuelo Castiglioni, who basically lived the art that made Marni famous. This season, the designer – who graduated from Central Saint Martins and has worked under some of Italy's most prominent designers: Anna Molinari, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, and, most recently, Miuccia Prada – finally settled into his own and churned out a Spring/Summer collection filled with punk vibes that were all his own. On a more feminine note, Risso designed some asymmetrical apron dresses and a crowd pleasing red overcoat adorned with splotches of white paint. A more commercially palatable collection, he also was very clever in drawing attention back to Marni’s accessories. There were gold-plated leaves and jumbo gilded coral earrings that really stood out.
Backstage at the Marco de Vincenzo Spring/Summer 2019 show in Milan. Photos by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
A tribute to real Sicilian life, Marco de Vincenzo took us inside a real ghetto in the heart of Messina, where he was born in 1978. Mesh bags with Sicilian oranges inside paired with more street style looks like sweatshirts with clever pleating in the back, showed the contrast of daily life.
Etro Spring/Summer 2019 show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
A Tribute to Paisley. The Etro family celebrated 50 years this year, opening an exhibit at the Mudec museum. The collection was also a tribute to the patterns that made them famous. Veronica Etro opted for a lazy, surfer girl theme, casting two top surfer girls: Victoria Vergara and Maribel Koucke.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2019 show in Milan. Photos by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
For Spring/Summer 2019, Philipp Plein made it rain fire, which had some spectators jumping out of their seats, afraid of being burnt. All was well. In a tribute to Michael Jackson, model Winnie Harlow stole the show in silver biker boots, while another rolled down the runway in a g-string. Plein, no stranger to stirring a buzz, invited Chris Brown, dance duo Ayo and Teo, rapper 6ix9ine, and the cast of Cirque le Soir.
Act. N°1 Spring/Summer 2019 show in Milan. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
It's lovely to see the sense of poetry that emanates from young designers and Act. N°1, a newcomer on the Milan fashion scene was all about an inner message. “There can be no freedom if young women are forced to marry,” said co-designer Galib Gassanoff backstage, after unfurling a show of contrasts: commercial items like silk slip dresses, followed by silk wedding gowns draped over hoodie sweatshirts modelled by young girls adorned with veils – to really drive their message home.