Milan’s Costume Drama: Miss Havisham Versus Norma Desmond

WHEN you’re confronted with a catwalk laden with upturned pseudo-antique furniture and then greeted by burning ball gowns (they steamed as they sauntered down said catwalk) and a stream of singed sequins, you can’t help but wonder whose fashion home you’ve accidentally stumbled upon: that of Great Expectations’ Miss Havisham or Sunset Boulevard’s Norma Desmond (both great style protagonists). It’s a tough choice and it could have been both; it was either.

 


Moschino Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show, Milan (Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)

 

And while this was merely the wonderfully elaborate and brilliantly bonkers setting at Jeremy Scott’s Moschino show, this mood seemed to prevail throughout many of the Milan collections – a dressed-up costume drama mentality that saw a fuzzy stole slung over many a shoulder; a bouffant up-do in favor of natural tousles; a lace collar unfurling in flounce around a neck; a brocade boudoir robe draped artfully in its descent around the body; and a vintage net-trimmed pillbox hat to finish. Normcore? Sorry, what was that again? Exactly, it’s over and we’re all enjoying a good old rummage through the dressing-up box – wardrobe – for a new-found love of eclecticism and old-world grandeur. Glamour.

 


The incredible set at the Moschino Fall/Winter 2015 ready-to-wear show, Milan (Anna Palermo for NOWFASHION)

 

But Moschino, with all its theatrics and five-star show elements, wasn’t the only one to travel back in fashion time and re-delight in proper fashion fashion. Antonio Marras, Blumarine, Ermanno Scervino, Gucci, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Marco de Vincenzo – they all opted for collections (and/or settings) that wandered along these lines.

 

 

VIDEO | ANTONIO MARRAS READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 MILAN

VIDEO | ANTONIO MARRAS READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 MILAN

Posted by Nowfashion.com on Sunday, February 28, 2016

 

Marras has always had an affection for the heartfelt, his collections emotional (poems, passages of prose or letters to loved ones his preference over the traditional press notes); he planted (literally) bath tubs on his catwalk and filled them with reeds and flowers. What came next were looks of feathers and jewels, lace, embroidery and pinstripes – a mash-up of texture and technique that shimmered with shine and played to a Victoriana era. Miss Havisham.

 


Marco de Vincenzo Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show, Milan (Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)

 

De Vincenzo, long an explorer of surface texture, shows it off to masterful effect through his choice of colors. This time round he picked psychedelic. It was a far bolder outing than last season, but that was more to do with the styling – the big hair to go with the big colors and the big prints made it all very impactful. Sometimes too much. But take it apart and his mastery is all still there – and he knows how to make a great pair of shoes (but you have to be quick to get a good Insta-snap before they walk on past). Norma Desmond.

 

 

VIDEO | BLUMARINE READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 MILAN

VIDEO | BLUMARINE READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 MILAN

Posted by Nowfashion.com on Sunday, February 28, 2016

 

Blumarine went all film noir on us – a street sidewalk setting and the sound of high heels clip-clopping to match the pace of the girls. Undoubtedly then one for Ms Desmond, it was all fuzzy red-carpet coats, belted macs and long-lean bohemian evening dresses. Embroidery and pussy bows all called to mind that romantic and eclectic mood Milan has been wallowing in ever since Gucci took its about-fashion-turn.

 


Ermanno Scervino Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show, Milan (Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)

 

Meanwhile, there was a more folkloric approach to all of this from Ermanno Scervino: lace combined with rose embroideries and Little Red Riding Hood fur numbers. Stoles, gowns, high collars, there too came Victoriana elements – enough to satisfy both of the aforementioned heroines’ tastes.

 


Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show, Milan (Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)

 

But one of the most romantic offerings of the week had to belong to Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini. Having been at the helm of the house since October 2014, he’s found comfortable footing in the sorts of designs that make your heart beat and that you can comfortably wear too. They were the right side of frothy, girly, and frilly with just the right dose of Eighties-style semantic in there too to sober them up. Ribbons, lace, flounce and even some leather, there was plenty to appeal: from wanting right through to actually buying.  

 


MSGM Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show, Milan (Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)

 

And so then MSGM would be the modern incarnation of all of the above – the very modern incarnation. The stoles (belted into coats), supersized florals, frills and lace – they were all here but executed in the bold and bright way that only MSGM does. The styling was cool with great jewelry: strands of silver swinging from the hip; a choker like a geometric line-drawing implanted onto the neck; and big earrings.  

 

Anna Cleveland going down the Moschino Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear runway, Milan (Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)

 

And we can’t not talk about Moschino some more: Anna Cleveland did one of her now renowned performance catwalk walks, no doubt spurred into action by the heat of her dress, which she seemed to be trying to blow out; so feisty and loud did the fictional country house fashion party get that some “cops” had to turn up – dressed in be-bowed biker jackets of course.

 


Gucci Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show, Milan (Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)

 

Nor can we leave out Gucci – a key culprit behind so many of the movements in fashion right now and striking a new chord: vintage, glamour, magpie dressing and showing off your personality (however eccentric or not that might be) is welcomed once more.

 

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