Missoni Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2014 Milan
Strategic naturalness. Now that’s a phrase to make you pause mid step. What does that imply exactly? It took watching the entire Missoni fall/winter 2014 show for the underlying message of that rather hazy headlining descriptive to come into focus.
On designer Angela Missoni’s runway that meant utilizing a variety of knitting techniques on an assortment of different wools to created knitwear with an architectural approach.
Architectural is a word that has come up a lot over the past week in Milan, as a number of brands look for new ways to expand on the cocooning volume trend of last winter. The direction most are taking is to turn that season’s rounded oversized shapes into something more angular and architectural in nature this time around.
The way that Missoni did this was to create the brand’s cornerstone knitwear in geometric color block patterns. A ribbed knit dress would feature a crazy paving intarsia. Wrap skirts would be crafted in zigzagging chevrons. And caban coats would come in an outsized marble print. All of it created in a color palette of oranges, browns, greens and yellows that are most closely associated with the 1970s.
Brighter accent colors on the trim of jackets or the lining of a top folded back at the collar also deepened the architectural vibe of the show. As did the equally vibrant boots, utility belts and gloves that popped with emphasis, drawing the eye away from the slightly more muted shades of the clothing.
As far as volume is concerned, it was much less apparent on the Missoni catwalk if we compare it to other shows this season. Cuts lent themselves to be called “forgiving” rather then full or oversized. This would be the right descriptive for the brand’s ankle length cargo pants, parkas and overcoats.
Unfortunately, all the architectural angles of this show never added up to a point of view that was sharp enough to standout in this Milan Fashion Week.