Missoni Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 Milan
Angela Missoni took her signature collection all the way back to what is truly essential, the four basic elements of life: earth, water, fire and air. This focus on the fundamentals proved to be exactly what this house needed.
There was something primitive about the collection that gave it a real primal energy. The crashing ocean print dresses with black line seagulls (you know like the ones we all did when we were kids) brought to mind the famed Missoni zigzag motif. A striped fringe top or skirt with the ends woven back into the knitwear to control their sway, looked like waves of water crashing against the body. And even the Missoni name cut from abstract black plastic shapes appeared to be some sort of tribal tattoo when it showed up on boxy tops.
The show’s silhouettes had an island native vibe to them, that helped underscore the idea of an indigenous design that the collection's patterns and prints were pushing. The knitwear dresses that wrapped up the shoulder like a sari, the wrap front sarong skirts and even the strappy flat sandal footwear helped to make this collection feel like it existed on some richly colored tropical island somewhere in the South Pacific.
But what kept this collection from feeling as if it was mere holiday fair, was Missoni’s choice to go with a darker color palette. Bruised plum, deep turquoise, emerald green, blood orange, and black were the dominant shades of the show. They neutralized any possibility of these garments looking girly or romantic. No, the Missoni woman next spring is going to be more combustible and simulating then she ever has been before.