Miu Miu Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris

The vast space of the Conseil Economique Social et Environnemental building where Miu Miu has been showing its collections for a few seasons now got an austere new look for the brand’s fall/winter 2013 show.  The label built in a low ceiling to give a claustrophobic feeling to the space and then constructed a metal grate covered light box for the models to walk across during the show.

The urban and industrial vibe continued when the first notes of the haunting melody of the Eurythmics song “This City Never Sleeps,” from the soundtrack of the infamous erotic film Nine ½ Weeks began to play. It was as if Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu women were in transition. Not simply the literal image the show evoked of the models walking a platform to make a connection between two metro trains, but more of a move away from a girly femininity to one born of experience and understanding of oneself.

The clothing was striking and not just because of the impressive way Prada was able to make polka dots (and stripes for that matter) look fresh and new. But also in how she masterfully conveyed a repressed sensuality to her long and lean designs- a new silhouette for the house- that was most clearly felt in the colorful graphic pleated skirts would peek out from the bottom of a body skimming black knit dress. The bomber jacket inspired dresses and other knitwear versions that all had dramatic industrial zippers down the front were another avenue for Prada to hint at the sexy side of her women. With one quick yank those pieces could be pulled off for a clandestine rendezvous with a lover.

Those sexually charged prim and proper pieces were made even more attractive thanks to the strong outerwear. The wide shawl collar coats, which featured big buttons closures that cleverly echoed the polka dot print, looked modern but had a retro glamour to them. A sentiment felt most strongly when they came cut in lush furs and astrakhan.

The collection made for a fine finish to Paris Fashion Week.

- Jessica Michault

 

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