The complexity of today's women is what excited Paul Andrew, Creative Director at Salvatore Ferragamo. This season, the brand showed a woman born from a blend of modern archetypes – a theme that the Swiss psychoanalyst and psychiatrist Carl Jung identified and deeply inspired the designer. In short, the queen, the mother, the lover, the sage, the maiden, huntress and the mystic were dissected and reassembled in different pieces "because today's women are all of them together, no longer defined by such separate categories," as Andrew explained backstage before the show. "From Nancy Pelosi to Wanda Ferragamo, from Sharon Stone to Rihanna." The collection showed a deluxe wardrobe that mixed tailoring with corset details, longuette skirts with deep slits and fluid leather or silk dresses. "We'll have also prints which are inspired by Flavia Ferragamo's collections of cutouts she loved to do and foldable and packable pieces which are easy passe-partout for travel lovers." After the big Vara shoe success, it was reinterpreted as a boot. "There were layers of leftover that were piling in our warehouses for years, so we decided to dye them out and create the strappy knotted sandals or bags details." The sustainable addiction is never a bad idea.
The second chapter of Dario Argento's collaboration at MSGM was more focused than the first one presented last January. The horror movie maestro's incredible taste for aesthetic and Giorgetti's ability for merchandise delivered a smart collection which, Miu Miu-ish references apart, looked funny and desirable. "We had more time to develop and go deeper on our work together," explained Massimo Giorgetti before the show. "I wanted to work on a more mature woman, but in the dialogue with Dario it came out more girly and funny. We discover to have in common a lot of passions in particular for beauty and youth so, we let it go, young witches, go to school." The printed pleated skirts with movie posters printed on and the t-shirts are a must-have for all the fans.
The glorious 90s of Narciso Rodriguez, Yohji Yamamoto and Calvin Klein were the reference for the Agnona co-ed collection. Creative Director Simon Holloway was inspired by the famous and stylish couple Carolyn Bessette – at the time CK's director of show productions – and John-John Kennedy, son of American President John F. Kennedy. “Those years really inspired me," said the designer. "From the luxury casual wear looks in camel and indigo blue, with padded jackets filled with recycled nylon and cashmere leftovers, to the tailoring for both women and men." The colour palette was composed entirely of natural hues, featuring two shades of undyed cashmere without any colouration. The collection looked as precious as Agnona's DNA, but the risk of picking such iconic models that wore iconic designers can perhaps make you lose your identity.
"We evolved our collaboration with Liberty of London printing their flower on silk velvets and treating them in many different processes. This is the only way to have different effects and unique pieces. I chose non-industrial operations, as today it's the only way to deliver something more special in a market that often doesn't offer beautiful products." Stated Lorenzo Serafini, Creative Director at Philosophy. The overall result was a strong 70s glam look where the Biba and David Bowie influence was very strong. Serafini is still in search of a linear identity for his design, even though it could look cute to new generations, it's almost too literal a quotation from the imagery of those years.
A wiry all-black silhouette opened the coed show of Bottega Veneta by Creative Director Daniel Lee. For both men and women, the collection included rigorous tailoring with flashes of acid green and strawberry pink for shirts, in between long fringed dresses for women that interrupted the strict aesthetic. Coats, stretch dresses and accessories were fringed in thin threads or bold woolly ones for the fur coats. There was also a hint of sportswear with the waxed cotton jumpsuit and raincoats – something that added another layer to the collection. Sparkling accents due to the parachute Swarovski covered dress, pants and skin-tight sequined dresses in cherry red or powder pink were also a part of the show. The overall collection delivered too many inputs not linked properly together to create a coherent mood. Accessories were, of course, a lot. The number of bags was well assorted and the shoes could only be found in two styles, high cowboy boots and big wellington clog-like ankle boots.
Missoni played with geometries within the co-ed collection. The graphic looks, with a work of straight lines and voluminous shapes, told a story of feminine strength, empowerment and self-awareness. Angela Missoni paired kimono-shaped wide blousons with pleated trousers or shawls collared waistcoats with knitted tunics. The signature motifs were combined with polygon patchwork-effect fantasies that helped to reinvent a new Missoni texture. A lot of lurex illuminated the evening parts and everything became lighter. Angela Missoni's women and men collections looked sophisticated and chic even if it was still missing a unique link to make them speak the same language.