Moncler Gamme Rouge Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 Paris

Moncler is rather known for its straightforward urban chic loved by rappers – hello Kanye – than for its sophisticated ready-to-wear women. By adding “Gamme Rouge” to the brand's name with Giambattista Valli as creative director, Moncler expected to climb the hierarchy of Paris' ready-to-wear schedule.

Without reaching the top, Moncler Gamme Rouge has at least succeeded with its 5th season in Paris, by proving that the brand is still able to produce a very coherent collection, while remaining most playful and entertaining. The spring-summer 2013 being all about sexy sailors and kinky mermaids getting ready for the beach, or let's say that we could feel the reminiscence of the late 70s American TV-series “Love Boat,” when male models took off their bathrobes to show off their athletic skills at the very beginning of the show.

Clothing wise, head-designer Giambattista Valli played with refined outerwear aesthetics, by opting for white sporty coats and H-line dresses carved out of perforated grids with sequined floral embroideries to emphasize trims, shoulders and sleeves, or the bodice. Oversize pockets and apparent silver zippers underlined the sporty tone of the collection.

The very jet-set-ish atmosphere – a cliché of San Remo or of the French Riviera – was underscored by a few menswear silhouettes who came along in preppy white or red colored looks made of sporty shorts paired with sleek working shirts, neckties, summery hats and sunglasses.

Towards the end a few bold prints where showcased, such as wave prints in blue hues and vintage prints of synchronized swimmers, that looked like sunflowers from afar. On a few menswear jumpers one could even read “Da Adolfo, Positano,” the name of a famed beach restaurant close to Naples – maybe Valli's favorite?

- Elisabeta Tudor