Something changed in Moon Young Hee's design inventory. Yes, the Korean designer is still mostly known for her deconstructed take on womenswear, but something more casual, and carefree came across this season.
Take Hee's slightly sporty touch – or maybe it was just the lace up trainers that gave this impression – but a shimmery, black short dress, and a white, boxy top and skirt ensemble, that would both rather be expected for a cocktail hour, were perfectly adapted to the streets.
Her usual heavy layering, pairing opaque and sometimes see-through fabrics, turned into a serenade of superimposed silks and muslins that embraced the body. The collection came with a casual à-la-va-vite look that suggested the designer may have just pinned her silhouettes shortly before sending her models on the runway.
As expected, Hee kept her color palette tame: only sober shades were allowed, including her usual black and white contrast, next to hints of mint green and cobalt blue. Trimmings seemed unfinished, treatments were often raw, and various, voluminous, draped silk and muslin panels, added some structure to the front of dresses and tops. Her volumes were – as always, and that's a Moon Young Hee-must – puffy and constructed in the front, sleek in the back, and mostly crafted from double-faced lightweight fabrics. All light and laid-back.