A film noir ambiance reigned at Moon Young Hee, closing the Spring-Summer 2016 fashion week in Paris. The Paris-based Korean, who recently opened a roomy flagship store on the banks of the Seine opposite the Louvre, offered a collection that played on her strengths, with beautifully tailored volumes making good use of handsome fabrics. For the summer, Hee scaled back the flurries and swathes of fabric that often obscure the lines that she cuts.
With a binary palette of black and white, Hee manages to express sentiment without overpowering it with dramatic flourish. Worn high on the waist, an oversize blouson gains volumes, while a dress cut in wide pinstripes proves to be akin to a jacket worn backwards. Reprised on a white poplin shirt, it elevated this basic item. Nested lozenges woven into the fabric of a suit, an overlay of lace with a motif curling like wrought-iron banisters and corded embroideries all evoked a graphic leaning.
Given how well these garments seem to come alive on the runway, you can imagine them charming an elegant woman, or bringing in a young professional shopping for something chic yet not too far from her usual fare. Chalk it up to masculine shapes tailored for a feminine body; the result was unmistakably Moon Young Hee's take on athleisure. Proof, if any were needed, that you can have an idiosyncratic vision yet be deeply wired into the times.