Genteel and blithe, the models in this catwalk show could have been the all female movie cast of an Italian comedy of manners set on an upper class country estate entirely wardrobed by Moschino. Oh what a film that would be!
All that was missing here was the suave figure of Mastroianni who starred in the '61 Italian farce, Divorzio all'italiana (Divorce Italian style) to kiss his wife as she sashayed past, nod at the maid – in this case Coco Rocha who wore a stuffed chicken on her head – hug his bespectacled daughter and raise an eyebrow at the ladies dressed as chauffeurs or in horse-rising gear.
There was much to love here, nothing crazy or wacky, all of it classic with many twin-sets in navy, black or monochrome in the style of Audrey Hepburn of Monica Vitti, none of it busty or blustering. There were cherry red riding jackets and smart sailing ensembles. There were plays on the female tuxedo with blue or cerise sashes. All the necklines were high and adorned with bows, bow-ties or roses. A highlight was the black and white section which moved to barely-there rose and black where hems, pockets and cuffs were lined with black stripes. The 50s style, thick-rimmed glasses (very similar to those worn by Moschino creative director Rossella Jardini) were incredibly sexy and the dark eyes and light lips (by make-up artist Tom Pecheax), a combination so often favoured by actress Giovanna Mezzogiorno meant that a strong maquillage didn’t hi-jack the show.
Soundtrack: Cut Copy, Need You Now (Modular Recordings)