The only reason that the argument can’t be made that Jeremy Scott is the reincarnation of Franco Moschino is that their lives overlapped by a couple of decades. But anyone who took in Scott’s debut for the iconic, ironic Italian brand can imagine the founder beaming from beyond at the creations Scott sent down the catwalk on Thursday night.
A delayed start of almost an hour (thank you Katy Perry) left the fashion crowd in a fowl mood. And gave the designer something of an up hill battle considering the frame of mind the audience was in when the lights finally dimmed; although the collective booing of the very late pop singer, when she finally showed up, was cathartic for some.
But all of that pre show angst was forgotten the moment the first McDonald’s inspired red and yellow outfit hit the catwalk with a clever matching Happy Meal bag. From there this collection was a rip roaring ride that plugged right into the childlike charm that is at the very core of the house.
Scott touched on all of the brand’s building blocks. Fun play on words were seen on the back of a long fur coat that had the phrase “Fur Real” written out in tall letters. Tricksy transformative fashion appeared as a crop top, crafted out of a quilted handbag with its gold chain strap wrapping the model’s neck. And logomania returned on black bondage outfits with the name Moschino spelled out in gold letters across each strap.
It was smart, and expected, that Scott pay homage to the brand’s past. But thankfully this show wasn’t just a nostalgic look back. The series of Sponge Bob outfits, the Moschino boxer brief bikini and particularly the evening wear that consisted of gowns constructed from prints reproducing the sugar sweet packaging of everything from chocolate bars and children’s cereal to gummy bears and popcorn were clearly coming from Scott. And the pixie haired bride in her white dress covered in a “nutritious facts” print was a fine final touch.
There is no question that this collection was over the top. But that is how it should be for a debut at a fashion house known for its love of the surreal and tongue-in-cheek chic. However, being outrageous is not the sum total of what Moschino represents in fashion. So the real test for Scott will be next season. But as the designer said (via his t-shirt) as he took his bow, “I don’t speak Italian but I do speak Moschino.” We tend to agree.
Watch the show!