Something has shifted in the world of Massimo Giorgetti. His invitation emblazoned with the word Freedom (from the Jonathan Franzen novel he loves), and the words of La Femme's La Femme Ressort, these all pointed towards a change in pace. From the very first look, a plain white coat tied to the side with just a pink collar peeking at the neckline, Giorgetti delivered just this.
Bright and airy would be the way to describe silhouettes that were more sophisticated than ever. The eye-intensive prints that have made the brand's bread and butter took a step back, and in their place was a polished collection that felt fearless. The feathered flock that inhabited many of the season's prints all seemed like a heartbeat away from taking that freedom to soar. Ghost versions of hoodies, polo shirts and collegiate V-neck sweaters topped floaty dresses, blurring the romance of their contours somewhat. These transparent cover-ups embodied the youthful MSGM spirit, grown-up but still clinging to the body like an aura. Beyond the poetic, they will no doubt be instant sell-outs with their boldly emblazoned letters spelling freedom. But where the designer showed his chops was on a boxy sleeveless coatdress, a deceptively simple pairing of a neon lace top with black trousers, a heft silk wrap skirt and other similarly dialled down looks that will be the perfect bait for customers wanting the MSGM experience, but not the visual riot of it.
It was a touch out of character, but for a season where most designers looked back on halcyon days, Giornetti pushed himself. As a result, his collection felt like one of the few going forward fearlessly.