Mugler Menswear Spring Summer 2013 Paris
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Mugler Menswear Spring Summer 2013 Paris

Slowly but surely Nicola Formichetti, Mugler’s creative director, is moving his collections away from pieces designed for the runway instead of the real world. With this show he and the brand’s menswear designer Romain Kremer, took another well placed step in the right direction.

However new Mugler fans shouldn’t worry that this more sure footed fashion means that it is any less directional in its outlook. This collection had a decidedly futuristic and minimalistic ethos. But instead of making the clothing a rehashing of the space age inspired style of the 1960s Kremer gave it a fresh perspective by looking at it from an “under the sea” point of view.

So what will the stylish men of Atlantis be wearing next summer?

Well the iconic sharp shouldered jackets that helped define the brand in its heyday are still in great supply. But this time they act as a framework for some cut away tops that left slices of skin exposed on the torso or across the collar bone. Could it have been reference to gills perhaps? As was, arguably, the well executed layered pleats on a structured white top that finish in angular superimposed strips of fabric that flatten down a pair of pleat fronted pants.  Short shorts came with their pockets on full display, pouring out from below the hemline and cut to a point like a fin. And even the choice of colors and fabrics had an underwater perspective; iridescent textiles and shimmering jacquards hinted at marine life and the tangy orange and sea blue outfits could be seen as the tropical fish swimming among the midnight black waves of outfits that dominated the show.  

The tide looks to be turning for the Mugler brand. But it is still too early to know if it will turn into a riptide.

-Jessica Michault