N°21 Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Milan
"This season I focused very much on a casual look," said Alessandro Dell'Acqua about his N° 21 menswear show. "But still with some structure and a relaxed attitude."
This informal yet purposeful aesthetic was a new direction for the house. It is one that the designer should continue to explore further next season as this show had a strong and cohesive message.
By bringing together tiered, layered linear silhouettes with those of the oversized variety, Dell'Acqua instantly broadened his potential customer base. And yet, there was a youthful energy about the entire show. The playfulness of a fitted knit top with a Henri Matisse-like lineup of naked ladies across the torso or a wife beater t-shirt cut from black lace worked well as a counterpoint to supersized bomber jackets or chunky anchor motif sweaters with raw yarn accents.
For a show that looked so carefree from a distance, there was quite a lot happening on the catwalk. The idea of creating a striped sweater woven to look as if, halfway down the arms, the yarn had been turned inside out was very clever. The use of a tropical animal print on military green garb to soften its associations was also insightful. Even the classic straight cut, high-waisted trousers were spruced up thanks to the inclusion of a grommet-adorned knee length belts.
This was a smart, successful collection that felt right in step with what men want right now.