“The collection is a mix between English style and Italian style,” said Alessandro Dell’ Acqua before his No. 21 show got underway. “The English element is the materials and the boyish attitude, and the Italian is the bourgeois Signora side,” elaborated the designer as he gestured to an outfit that combined a fuzzy mohair sweater in a plaid print with a red flannel shirt that echoed the same pattern that he paired with a “slit up to there” pencil skirt festooned with gold flower sequins and Swarovski crystals.
The combination of these two distinctive styles are certainly not a new sartorial slant, but Dell’Acqua should be praised for finding a way to make the mix look distinctly his own. It worked best when the silhouette played closer to the body. A slim lace skirt covered with bird motif embroidery paired with a boxy short sleeved sweater, a simple white dress with a darted waistline so that it caressed the model’s curves, and even ankle length brown wool pants, worn with a sweater casually tided around the waist and paired with a crystal covered, light blue business shirt all made the show’s concept work.
Outerwear was intentionally oversized, cocooning the body with asymmetrical hems that scooped down in the back. At times however those coats began to look more overwhelming then enveloping. But that can easily be fixed by buying the camel duffle coat or the one cut in gilded sheepskin in a smaller size.
If the bejeweled peplum skirts and floral patterned pieces that came bonded to wide bands of black neoprene felt a bit stilted, the designer made up for it with some highly covetable accessories including “Michael Jackson” sequin covered socks and penny loafers with the heels incrusted with crystals.
The overall take away from this show is that Dell’ Acqua is a designer who is not afraid to take risks and challenge his customers. While at the same time he never forgets to give them some inventive new staples for their wardrobe. What more can you ask for from a fashion house?
- Jessica Michault